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Related Features

137
• VETEMENTS

  Investigative fashion

  In the midst of the current volatile and frenzied fashion landscape, a label has appeared that is challenging the once unquestioned codes of the show system, and producing intriguing urban collections that are electrifying both customers and critics alike. Georgian born Demna Gvasalia is the man fronting the Vetements collective.

132
• TOM FORD

  A future legacy

  In taking on the forces of fast fashion and by ironically delivering at a faster rate, Ford will no doubt emerge an even bigger luxury force to be reckoned with—with each new collection made more exclusive by virtue of its limited edition. Executed with Ford’s trademark finesse and vision, the recalibration will indeed put the designer at the lead of fashion’s new renaissance.

135
• THOM BROWNE

  Properness and perversion

  In 2003, American essayist Judith Thurman, while covering the men’s collections in Milan and Paris for The New Yorker, wrote, “The flash of an ankle used to represent the chasm between a sophisticate and a rube.” Had she turned toward her countryman Thom Browne, who introduced his ready-to-wear collection that same year, she might have noticed a seismic shift in culturally sanctioned displays of masculine (that is to say, American) vanity.