The runway show is universally considered to be the perfect distillation of a designer’s creativity. Each season creative and artistic directors lead a team of multidisciplinary agents in a quest to help realise their visions. Neue Selects celebrates seven creative luminaries who, through their innovation and poise, have helped elevate fashion into an art form. For more visit harrolds.com.au
Image 01. Photo by Anna Huix.
ALEXANDRE DE BETAK
As both agent of change and sensory maverick, producer and director de Betak’s multi-dimensional runway presentations do more than distill a designer’s vision—they become great works of art. Manipulating space and time, his company Bureau Betak has made the impossible possible for clients such as Lanvin, Moncler and Givenchy in the past three decades.
Image 02. Photo by Jacek Poremba.
The Polish born artist is endeared by imperfections and accidents, much like the gnomic designer Rei Kawakubo. It’s no surprise then that Pagowski’s most iconic graphic signature is the red heart with eyes logo blazoned upon the Comme des Garçons Play merchandise. The insignia has become a symbol of the guerrilla style fashion operatives the world over.
Image 03. Photo by Adam Tetzloff.
The Los Angeles based artist says that she works “in the grey area between digital and physical”. Contemporary video collaborations with Stella McCartney feature her adorned in the designer’s wistful clothes, which combust spontaneously, move from wall to wall and become awash with shards of jubilant colour through computerised magic tricks.
Image 04. Photo courtesy of Vetements.
The Russian born hellion stylist walked straight off the runway into a styling career with Vetements and Balenciaga under the direction of Demna Gvasalia. Her penchant for ‘codes of social uniform’ have been translated into cult t-shirts and mutilated security garb. Her evocative and serially lopsided assemblages have reinforced just how influential a model’s eye can be.
Image 05. Photo by Sophie Carrère.
Sanchez is a sound artist and music producer. Sanchez curated the soundtrack to Craig Green’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection of listless drapes and strands, which at times seemed to unmoor his audience from reality. The composer says that music is like “perfume” that ignites the air with spectral tunes.
Image 06. Photo courtesy of Partel Oliva and Industry Arts.
Partel Oliva are an innovative Paris-based design duo specialising in technology and digital art. The imaginative collaborators are constantly pushing the boundaries of what is considered mainstream: from using racially diverse models in their digital storytelling, to creating avatars and immersive virtual realities. Their practice has led them to undertake the enviable role of artistic directors for all of Kenzo’s communications.
Image 07. Photo by Frazer Harrison.
Artist Sterling Ruby and designer Raf Simons conveniently share initials. Both also relish in the way that insouciant teenagers dress. Ruby’s aesthetically grunge art has enriched Simons’ haute couture collections with synonymous creative rapture. Ruby’s contribution has redefined the way in which the fashion world engages with art.
Neue Fashion • Issue 2 • Art • Feature • BY Neue Luxury SHARE
When it comes to the world of niche and artisanal perfumery, it’s easy to obsess. As perhaps one of the most elegant and esoteric nomenclatures of art and science, haute perfumery has the ability to bottle the very best of artistic human endeavour.
MASTERS OF HOROLOGY
There is a word in Sanskrit—‘kalpa’—which means the passing of time on a grand, cosmological scale. Native speakers uphold that the movement of celestial bodies can be observed only during meditative transcendence. Horology might be a noble science, but the watchmakers on this list, who approach their work with temerity and lyricism, prove that the tradition holds something divine.
Limitless in their drive to forecast, translate and influence their spheres, a curator must also rigorously keep on top of an escalating orbit of new artists, concepts, spaces, exhibitions and biennials. From the star curators whose names are among the most uttered, to the rising vanguards carving shapes outside the dominant Western sphere, we uncover the luminaries who are nailing down a new and provocative landscape for contemporary art.